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Installing
an outboard (“rigging” in marine industry speak) involves not only
bolting the outboard to the transom, but can also include connecting the
steering system, wiring harnesses, throttle and shift controls, and
instrumentation.
This issue of the Boaters’ Log is an overview
of what goes into rigging a new boat, so even if you don’t tackle the
job yourself, you’ll at least know what you’re talking about.
The Power
The
outboard must be the proper horsepower for the boat, based on the
manufacturer’s recommendation on the capacity plate, and be the correct
shaft length (15, 20, 25, or 30 inches) for the boat’s transom height.
WARNING
– Do not install an outboard with more horsepower than stated on the
capacity plate on the boat. If the boat doesn’t have a capacity plate,
contact the manufacturer to determine the maximum horsepower rating for
the vessel.
Placement
An outboard is mounted
on the center of the transom, in line with the keel or centerline of the
boat, and is usually secured to the transom with four stainless steel
bolts. The bolt holes are caulked with marine sealant to prevent water
from seeping into the transom’s core. Very large outboards may require
six bolts, while very small outboards may not require any at all, as
they are usually clamped to the transom using the screw-style clamps
integral to the bracket.
Outboard height – where the propshaft is
located in relation to the bottom of the boat – is critical, because if
the outboard is too high, the propeller can ingest air from the water’s
surface and lose its grip (ventilate). Or, if the outboard is too low,
the prop and gearcase will be farther below the boat bottom than
necessary, creating excessive drag and resulting in poor performance and
handling.
A rule of thumb is to install the outboard so the
anticavitation plate (horizontal flat metal part at the top of the
gearcase) is even with the bottom of the boat. This setup should work
well on most pleasure boats with moderate horsepower engines.
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| Steerage
There
are three types of steering systems currently available: single cable
steering for mid-size engines on boats capable of modest speeds, and
either dual cable steering or hydraulic steering setups on high
horsepower/high speed applications. Hydraulic steering systems are most
common in applications 150hp and up.
As the outboard is being
installed, the steering cable(s) will probably be fastened to the
outboard before it’s bolted to the transom, because on many boats the
outboard well opening isn’t wide enough to allow the steering cable(s)
to be attached with the engine in place.
However, hydraulic
steering components can be usually added after the outboard is attached
to the boat (flexible hoses instead of cumbersome cables), simplifying
the rigging process immensely.
Wiring
A
Yamaha outboard’s wiring system is made of three basic sections: a pair
of heavy-gage cables to conduct battery voltage to the engine and
charging voltage from the engine to the battery; a main wiring harness
(harness=bundle of wires) that connects the outboard to the remote
control box and ignition switch; and an instrument harness that sends
information from sensors on the outboard and in the boat to the gauges
in the dashboard.
Instrumentation
You have a choice from two types of instruments: analog or digital.
Analog
gauges haven’t changed a great deal in decades, requiring that each
gauge be hard-wired to its individual sending unit, as well as to a
power source. These traditional instruments work pretty well and aren’t
particularly expensive. However, since analog gauges need so many
dedicated wires and connectors, the opportunity for failure over
extended periods of time can be high.
Digital instruments use the
outboard’s engine management computer to process information from the
various sensors (boat and outboard) and display the outputs almost
instantaneously. Wiring these high-tech devices is simply a matter of
plugging sensor leads into a central wiring harness –digital really does
mean plug-and-play. Given the versatility of integrated microprocessor
circuitry, each digital gauge is capable of performing multiple
functions, allowing boaters to fine-tune the readouts – showing what is
important to them and hiding what isn’t.
Granted, digital gauges cost more up front, but the payoff can more than offset the initial investment.
Remote Controls
With
the exception of tiller-steer outboards (where the throttle and shift
controls are on the handle), your new Yamaha outboard needs a remote
control box – a unit that often incorporates an ignition switch, an
engine stop switch, and throttle and shift functions.
In
addition to the main wiring harness (from the outboard to the remote
control box), the throttle cable and shift cable will need to be
attached to the throttle/shift handle near the driver’s seat on one end,
and to the throttle and shift linkages on the outboard at the other
end.
Pre-Rigging
Routing wires and control
cables throughout a boat can be a daunting task, that’s why many
manufacturers install the wiring harnesses and cables as the boat is
being assembled, a process known as “pre-rigging”. For example, if a
builder knows a certain series of boats will be using Yamaha outboards,
those boats will be pre-rigged with Yamaha controls, wiring and
instruments to speed up the process when it comes time to mount the
engine.
As You Can See …
There is more to
rigging a boat than hanging an outboard on the transom; it’s a lot of
work that most of us aren’t equipped to do.
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The Basics: How to Rig an Outboard
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